{"id":663,"date":"2023-05-27T19:41:53","date_gmt":"2023-05-27T17:41:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/?p=663"},"modified":"2023-05-27T19:41:54","modified_gmt":"2023-05-27T17:41:54","slug":"energy-crisis-two-traditional-berlin-candy-makers-live-close-to-the-edge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/2023\/05\/27\/energy-crisis-two-traditional-berlin-candy-makers-live-close-to-the-edge\/","title":{"rendered":"Energy crisis: Two traditional Berlin candy makers live close to the edge"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A feature story by Lisa Maria Krause<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Amid all the crises of today, Hjalmar Stecher and Katja Kolbe, founders of the Bonbonmacherei in Berlin, had to raise their prices in a shorter time frame than usual. (Krause)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Slowly, the machine turns the red sugar dough into raspberry drops. Hjalmar Stecher, owner of the Bonbonmacherei in Berlin, cranks the machine by hand, while explaining his work to the onlookers. \u201cThe candy has to be coated in powdered sugar, when it’s still hot,\u201d he says. Most of the machines, the two-person business owns, are about 100 years old. The more \u201cmodern\u201d ones are around 70 or 80 years old, Stecher recalls. Because of this, the shop’s energy bill has always been relatively low. Yet, the energy crisis has hit the Bonbonmacherei at Heckmannh\u00f6fe through other channels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sugar, flavored syrup, and water is all Stecher and his partner, Katja Kolbe, need to produce an abundance of different hard candy. Raspberry, caramel, or licorice? What brings most costumers back into the shop, located in the basement with entrance through the courtyard, are the signature recipes. They originate in Berlin. Most Berliners would recognize the taste of \u201cBerliner Bl\u00e4tter\u201d from other wood-ruff flavored candy any day. \u201cWe couldn’t keep the name Maibl\u00e4tter,\u201d Stecher explains. Another manufacturer has patented the widely recognized name for the leaf-shaped candy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The prices for the few ingredients they need have risen drastically, influenced by the Covid-19 pandemic and Russia’s war on Ukraine. Propelled energy prizes result in higher production costs for ingredients. \u201cLicorice salt suddenly costs 200 percent more. Glucose syrup, too,\u201d states Kolbe from behind the counter. Their wholesale traders charge energy and delivery fees on top of that. Due to delivery problems, those fees have persisted since the start of the pandemic.\u201dLuckily, we only need small quantities,\u201d Kolbe, who is co-founder of the Bonbonmacherei, explains. Last time they had to order a new charge of syrup was in the beginning of 2022. But the two-person business cannot rely on a fixed price.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They never know when or how much for the prize paid they will actually get, Kolbe notes. Because of their infrequent ingredient restocking, the prize hike is delayed. The woman describes the prizes super markets set these days as \u201chorror\u201d. If these are the real prices for sugar that candy makers will have to pay on their next order, the increase could have a big impact on small businesses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The candy makers raised their own prizes twice in one year. From originally 2,25 euro until January 2022 to 2,50 euro in October per 100 grams of candy. This equals a price increase of eleven percent. \u201cThis is unusual within a short time frame,\u201d Kolbe admits. But she cites personal extra expenses as the reason. The candy maker explains how they have always lived \u201cknapp vor Kante\u201d, meaning with little extra money to spare. The two don’t have much leeway, when the energy crisis and inflation influence their living expanses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That those effects also trouble their customers, the two sweets producers mostly see it with walk-ins rather than returning customers. Their hard candy is a small treat one can still afford, Kolbe believes. Most of their patrons know what they want and stick with it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The shop, located in the basement at Heckmannh\u00f6fe, has become an insider tip for tourists. They offer free demonstrations of their craft. (Krause)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Their customers are who keep them afloat through thick and thin. They helped the Bonbonmacherei through difficult times. Ordering with a phone call during the pandemic is one thing, though. The two-person business sells the sweets \u201cfrom the stove right into the mouth,\u201d how Kolbe explains it. \u201cWe never got as many tips as the last three years,\u201d she adds. Not long after this statement a customer tells her to keep the change. \u201cPasst schon,\u201d(That’s alright) he says with a smile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A young man in a long winter coat comes down the stairs into the shop. After browsing the shelves with different candy packed in small plastic bags for a bit, he turns to the woman behind the counter. \u201cThe selection really hasn’t changed in years,\u201d the customer states with a surprised but pleased look. He has visited the store as a little kid with his parents and grandparents long ago, he explains later. How the Bonbonmacherei sticks to the classics, brings back memories for him. Not long after, the young man leaves with a bag full of candy to gift to his family for Christmas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is not an unusual occurrence, Kolbe notes. Quite often the love for the traditional Berlin taste transcends generations. She remembers a study on senses she has read before. \u201cSense of taste and smell is not something you loose. Those are memories that always remain somewhere,\u201d Kolbe recalls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The couple prides themselves in being the first who offered an open kitchen for candy making. Twice a day they demonstrate their craft, free of charge. Another way the Bonbonmacherei has turned into an insider tip for tourists. The two insist that the brass pot for melting the sugar and water mixture has to be heated over a gas driven flame. Despite this, Kolbe and Stecher have no interest in energy-saving advice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Next to the vintage machines, the couple also uses old rolls to give the candy its signature shape. (Krause)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSaving energy for what? Five euros a year?,\u201d the seller retorts. There is no use in it with LED lights everywhere in the shop and barely any more energy to save, both of them believe. And yet, Kolbe reports of several energy saving consultants showing up in their shop. \u201cThey all left their business cards here,\u201d she recounts. Consulting firms on energy-saving have reported an increased interest in their services by companies. Some say their number of on-site consultations has doubled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The two candy makers already had to make some changes in light of the difficult situation over the past few years. Necessity certainly created the need to rethink previous structures. During the height of the pandemic, Kolbe decided to step down as co-owner of the Bonbonmacherei. Now, she is her partner’s employee. This way, she profits off the German statutory health insurance and short-term allowance. As an employee she also received 300 euro in energy prize lump sum by the government last fall. Though, that is but a mere drop in the bucket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Political answers to the crises of today have been slow and unsteady. Especially small and midsize companies like the Bonbonmacherei seem to be overlooked. After Russia started its war against Ukraine, voices grew calling for support of the biggest energy producers in Germany. In wake of the energy crisis, the main companies driving the economy and offering jobs remained exclusively in focus. The first aid packages provided money to those companies with high energy consumption.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Only recently, attempts of support for smaller businesses have appeared on the federal state level. Despite those businesses being hit by increasing energy bills just as much as low income families. The Berlin senate offered a loan on a reduced rate to all companies and freelancers starting October 2022. This was not an option to Kolbe and Stecher. Barely any businesses took this opportunity, Stephan Schwarz, senator for economy, admitted. Though, he believes most people will be more interested in their grant program. This aid is still in the works and is expected to be implemented early 2023.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI don’t know, whether this energy aid will apply to small and midsize companies, too. It’s not clear yet,\u201d Kolbe comments, \u201cObviously, it would be nice.\u201d The senate has yet to release clear directions whether people can apply for the financial aid online or whether companies with low energy costs are even eligible. \u201cThe question is, what is realistic? Free energy for everyone would be great, of course,\u201d Stecher notes with a grin. His newest batch, seven kilograms of raspberry candy, is ready to be put on the shelves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A feature story by Lisa Maria Krause Slowly, the machine turns the red sugar dough into raspberry drops. Hjalmar Stecher, owner of the Bonbonmacherei in Berlin, cranks the machine by hand, while explaining his work to the onlookers. \u201cThe candy … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[24,27,37,23],"tags":[7,98,96,70,46,97,91],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/663"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=663"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/663\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":667,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/663\/revisions\/667"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=663"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=663"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juk.hmkw.de\/hmkwdigitalstories\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=663"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}